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When most people think of Hawai‘i, images of stunning beaches, mesmerizing sunsets, and serene relaxation come to mind. For coffee aficionados, however, “Kona” is often the first association with the Hawaiian Islands. Despite its image as a vacation paradise, Hawai‘i is also a critical player in the coffee industry. However, this industry has faced significant challenges recently, from the COVID-19 pandemic to devastating wildfires and persistent agricultural pests and diseases.
This month, The Coffee Blog (TCB) delves into the Hawaiian coffee scene, focusing on local roasters and exploring the preferences of island residents, who often find Hawai‘i-grown coffee too expensive for daily consumption.
Hawai‘i’s coffee industry is supported by three main types of roasters:
While Hawai‘i contributes a mere 0.04% to global coffee production, it remains the state’s second most profitable crop, closely following macadamia nuts. However, coffee production has been declining. During the 2022–23 harvest season, Hawai‘i produced 24.8 million pounds of coffee, a 9% drop from the previous year, primarily due to the spread of coffee leaf rust (CLR), a devastating fungal disease first detected on Maui in 2020 and shortly after on Hawai‘i Island. This disease, along with the coffee berry borer (CBB) beetle and recent wildfires, has significantly impacted production.
Despite these setbacks, Hawai‘i’s coffee remains priced independently of the global commodity market. The average price of unroasted Kona coffee is $26.50 per pound, compared to $2.03 per pound for standard Arabica coffee. Yet, high labor costs and lower yields mean that Hawaiian coffee farmers aren’t living in luxury.
In our latest tasting, we reviewed 45 coffee samples from roasters across the islands: 31 from Hawai‘i Island, seven from O‘ahu, three from Maui, and four from Kaua‘i. Here, we highlight the top-scoring coffees, focusing on those grown and roasted locally.
Historically, many Hawaiian coffee farmers have roasted their beans in small batches for local markets. While these coffees might not always represent the best of Hawaiian coffee, some farmers stand out for their attention to both farming and roasting.
Hula Daddy Kona Coffee scored the highest with Laura’s Reserve SL34 (97). Roasted by Laura Ross, this coffee, grown on their 10-acre farm in Holualoa, is a complex and aromatic delight. Co-owner Karen Paterson highlights the high labor costs as a major challenge but remains committed to producing high-quality coffee for a predominantly mainland customer base.
Kona Farm Direct, managed by Kraig and Leslie Lee, offers 100% Kona Classic (94), a balanced and rich Typica coffee. Kraig emphasizes the importance of meticulous farming and processing to maintain quality.
Rusty’s Hawaiian, based in the Ka‘ū region, presented Rusty’s Classic Ka‘ū Peaberry (94), a lush and sweet coffee. Founded by Rusty and Lorie Obra, the farm has overcome many challenges, including CLR and rising production costs. The farm, now run by Lorie, her daughter Joan, and son-in-law Ralph Gaston, continues to produce exceptional coffee.
Heavenly Hawaiian, known for its innovative approaches, submitted Kona Geisha Champagne (94), with notes of nectarine, star jasmine, and cocoa nib. This coffee is a testament to the unique flavors that can be achieved in Hawai‘i’s diverse growing conditions.
Monarch Coffee showcased “Hapa” (93), a blend of light, medium, and dark-roasted Kona Typica, offering a comforting and familiar Kona profile. Abby Munoz, director of operations, highlights the collaborative relationship with customers and the challenges of high production costs and logistics.
Hala Tree Coffee presented SL28 Honey (93), a citrusy and floral coffee. Co-owner Danielle Orlowski emphasizes the importance of controlling the entire process from tree to cup to ensure quality.
Kona Hills Coffee produced 100% Kona Extra Fancy (92), a classic profile with notes of baking chocolate, date, and hazelnut. Owner Mark Takizawa has been farming coffee on his five-acre plot since 1987, managing everything himself.
Big Island Coffee Roasters partnered with farmer Miles Mayne to produce Ka‘ū Giant Maragogipe (95), a unique coffee with stone fruit, floral, and tangerine notes. Co-founder Kelleigh Stewart discusses the benefits of supply chain transparency and the ethical aspects of working exclusively with Hawaiian-grown coffee.
Pacific Coffee Research (PCR), a women-owned business, combines education and roasting. Their 100% Ka‘ū Navarro (93) features fruit and floral notes with a sweet herbaceousness. Co-owner Madeleine Longoria Garcia argues for a pricing model based on production costs and profit margins rather than commodity prices.
Interestingly, importing green coffee from Africa is illegal in Hawai‘i, leading local roasters to source beans from Central and South America and Indonesia.
Paradise Roasters, now fully based in Hilo, Hawai‘i, offers rare microlots from various origins. The Panama Mokkita Natural Mama Cata Estate (96) is a standout with wild strawberry and lavender notes. Owner Miguel Meza enjoys the diversity of flavors from different origins and highlights the limited supply and high costs of Hawaiian coffee.
Origin Coffee Roasters, based in Maui, submitted a JN Farms Double Anaerobic Red Bourbon (94), a spicy and fruity coffee. Owner Heather Brisson-Lutz balances her offerings with both Hawaiian and international coffees to cater to local tastes and price sensitivities.
ChadLou’s Coffee Roasters in Kailua, O‘ahu, offers a mix of local and international coffees. Their Cruz Loma Anaerobic Washed Ecuador (93) combines sweet, tart, and savory flavors. Their popular coffee shop attracts both locals and visitors.
Hanalei Coffee Roasters on Kaua‘i’s North Shore offers a Sunrise Blend (92) of Maui and Honduran coffees, providing an easygoing and affordable option.
Maui Oma Coffee Roasting Co. combines coffees from Hawai‘i Island, Maui, and O‘ahu in their 100% Hawaii Three Island Blend (92), a cocoa-toned and nutty introduction to Hawaiian coffee.
Despite the numerous challenges facing Hawaiian coffee producers, from agricultural pests to natural disasters and high production costs, the community continues to thrive through innovation, collaboration, and an unwavering commitment to quality. Hawaiian coffee roasters not only offer some of the finest coffees globally but also foster an ethical, transparent supply chain that supports local farmers.
We invite you to explore the diverse and rich world of Hawaiian coffee by sampling some of these exceptional roasts. Whether you’re a seasoned coffee enthusiast or new to the scene, there’s something for everyone in Hawai‘i’s coffee offerings.
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