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Making instant coffee sounds simple: brew coffee, remove the water, package the dehydrated product, and let consumers rehydrate it. However, judging by the 24 instant coffees we tested for our September tasting report, achieving quality in instant coffee is anything but easy.
Traditionally, the dreadful quality of instant coffee available in supermarkets raises the question of whether the issue lies in the dehydration process or the quality of the coffee used. Since instant coffee has long been marketed for its convenience and low price rather than its quality, big coffee companies had little incentive to use high-quality beans. Most supermarket instant coffees likely consist of lower-quality Vietnamese Robusta beans, considered some of the worst in the world.
In recent years, some entrepreneurs and forward-thinking specialty roasters have explored the possibility of offering high-quality, single-origin coffee in an instant format. These efforts aim to bring the distinctive flavors and characteristics of specialty coffee to the convenience of instant coffee.
Thanks to the risk-taking generosity of several specialty roasting companies and three specialty-oriented soluble facilities, some distinguished coffee names appeared among the 24 instant coffee samples we tested this month. Our test lineup included an instant Kenya, a natural-processed Ethiopia, three wet-processed Ethiopias, a Costa Rica, a Peru, and three Colombias, including two specifically identified specialty-lot Colombias. We also tested several specialty blends in instant format.
Starbucks was the first American company to attempt to elevate instant coffee with the launch of its Via line of single-serve instants in 2011. We included two Starbucks Via selections in our tests this month: the “medium-roasted” (actually dark-roasted) Colombia and the “blonde” (close to true medium-roasted) Veranda Blend.
To provide benchmarks, we also tested three standard American supermarket instant blends and three from Asia, including Maxim, a premium offering from Korea, and two from the Japanese coffee king UCC, a standard blend, and a premium blend.
Can one enjoy a genuinely distinguished, highly differentiated coffee in instant format? Something you can travel with, toss in a purse, take to a friend’s house, or take camping? Something that will deliver immediate beauty with the first dribble of hot water, even on a mountainside or at a picnic table?
Yes and no. Yes, the best of the new specialty instants are much better than traditional supermarket instants. And yes, you can detect the character of the green coffee behind whatever sensory static is introduced by dehydration and rehydration. These are significant achievements.
On the other hand, are these specialty instants the equal of similar coffees freshly ground and brewed? No, they’re not.
Perhaps this goal will be achieved in the future as the technology of brewing for instant production is further optimized for quality rather than efficiency and cost. But for now, based on our testing, specialty coffee in instant format loses some vivacity and detail while adding a sometimes slight, sometimes dominant wood or salt note related to the soluble process.
We tested 24 instants, categorized by specialty single-origin, specialty blends, standard American supermarket, and Asian instants. The average score for specialty single-origin instants was 83, excluding one poor-quality Starbucks Via Colombia with a rating of 67.
The main question is whether the dramatic gain in portability and convenience is worth the sensory diminishment that comes with instant coffee. For example, washed Ethiopias with their citrus, flowers, and cocoa tendencies display less of these qualities in their instant forms. Preserving the delicate volatiles that convey floral and subtle fruit notes is the greatest challenge during instant extraction and dehydration.
Additionally, a sensory complex surfaced in all instants, ranging from mild to intense. This note sometimes reads as fresh wood, but often as stale, salty wood. In the top-rated specialty sample, Augie’s Ethiopia Layo Teraga Natural, solubilized by Voilà Coffee (89), the wood suggestion was fresh and clean. In lower-rated samples, this note often suggested soy sauce or beef jerky.
We reviewed eight relatively high-rated specialty instant samples, ranging from 83 to 89. For comparison, we also reviewed four very low-rated samples typical of traditional instant coffee.
For those interested in the portability and convenience of specialty instants, look for single-origin coffees identified by country name and region/farm/type. The more specific the name of the green coffee, the more likely the instant version will please.
Specialty instants are often collaborations between roasting companies and solubilizing companies, leading to double-branding on packages. The packaging may prominently feature either the roaster’s or the solubilizing company’s name.
The specialty instants we sampled were solubilized by three companies: Voilà Coffee, Swift Cup, and Sudden Coffee. All produced successful instants scoring 84 or higher. However, Swift Cup also solubilized several lower-rated coffees, and Sudden Coffee solubilized one that likely exceeded its shelf life.
The quality of the original green coffee plays a significant role. Single-origin coffees tend to rate higher than blends. The specifics of how the coffee is brewed and solubilized are also crucial but difficult to evaluate due to the reluctance of solubilizing companies to share details.
Shelf life is a concern. Swift Cup suggests a long shelf life for its products, possibly years, if stored correctly. Voilà Coffee estimates a one-year shelf life, while Sudden Coffee suggests six months. Starbucks prints best-by dates on its Via packets, likely indicating a one-year shelf life.
When purchasing specialty instants, look for top single-origin coffee names from reputable specialty roasters solubilized by companies like Voilà Coffee, Swift Cup, or Sudden Coffee. Ensure the coffee was packaged well and hasn’t been sitting for too long.
Mix your instant with water heated to lower, green-tea-brewing temperatures (160ºF to 175ºF) rather than boiling water. This reduces the intensity of objectionable wood and salt notes. Store instant packets in cool, dry conditions to preserve their quality.
Most specialty instants are freeze-dried, while Starbucks Via is spray-dried. Both types are typically mixed with 8-10 fluid ounces of water. We settled on 8.5 ounces for our tests. When testing instants sold in jars, we weighed out 5 grams, the same weight as contained in the freeze-dried specialty instant packets.
Ultimately, it’s about expectations. Instant coffee is a convenient alternative when ideal circumstances for brewing freshly ground whole-bean coffee are not available. Whether camping, traveling, or in situations where a quick and decent coffee fix is needed, the best specialty instants can be a good compromise.
If you’re intrigued by the convenience and quality of specialty instant coffee, consider trying some of the options mentioned above. And don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter for more coffee insights and updates from The Coffee Blog. Happy brewing!
Jhett’s earliest coffee love memories involve family road trips where coffee stops were as much a part of the adventure as the destinations themselves. Growing up coffee wasn’t just a drink for him - it fueled the after after party chill sessions or late night gaming. For him The Coffee Blog is about giving back to the coffee community, making it fun and easy to learn about the coffee industry, its about connecting people, and helping them discover new ways to enjoy their favorite brew. Fun Fact: Jhett is still a big-time gamer and loves hosting game nights! “Coffee isn’t just a drink… it’s the perfect excuse to connect with people.”
