The Rise of the Triple Ristretto
Coffee has a habit of changing while still holding on to its roots.
Few parts of coffee culture show this better than espresso. Techniques that were once considered unusual can become influential, while ideas that seemed completely standard can eventually be challenged by the next generation of baristas.
One of the major moments in this evolution came in 2003, when Paul Bassett won the World Barista Championship using a triple ristretto.
At the time, his approach was anything but conventional.
Paul initially faced scoring deductions because his coffee dose was considered excessive. Rather than simply accepting the decision, Paul and Toby Smith challenged the idea and argued that the espresso should ultimately be judged by how it tasted rather than only by technical interpretations.
That moment helped Paul reach the finals and, more importantly, brought the triple ristretto into the spotlight.
The approach was bold. A ristretto uses less water than a traditional espresso, producing a shorter, more concentrated drink. Paul pushed that idea further with a triple ristretto, creating an espresso that was intense and distinctive.
It was a reminder that competition coffee wasn’t only about following established rules. It was also about questioning them.
The Technical Revolution
Fast-forward to 2024, and the espresso landscape looks very different.
Mikael Jasin’s World Barista Championship-winning approach demonstrated just how much espresso preparation has evolved since Paul Bassett’s victory.
Using a 1:2.5 brew ratio with his Finca Deborah washed gesha, Mikael took an approach that was very different from the highly concentrated espresso associated with the triple ristretto.
Rather than focusing primarily on intensity, the goal was balance, complexity and a more layered flavour experience.
His approach also highlighted how improvements in roasting, grinders, brewing equipment and temperature control have given modern baristas much more control over extraction.
The result is an espresso where individual characteristics of the coffee can be explored rather than simply overwhelmed by strength.
For anyone who enjoys specialty coffee, this is an important shift. Modern espresso can be bright, fruity, floral, sweet and complex, rather than simply strong and bitter.
Mikael’s use of competition milk in his milk-based beverages also showed how carefully controlled ingredients and extraction can be combined to create a more refined coffee experience.
Understanding Extraction Yield and TDS
If you’ve spent any time going down the espresso rabbit hole, you’ve probably come across terms such as TDS and extraction yield.
They might sound technical, but they are useful tools for understanding what is actually happening in your cup.
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) refers to the percentage of dissolved coffee material in the finished beverage. In simple terms, it gives you an idea of how concentrated the drink is.
Extraction yield (EY) refers to how much of the coffee’s soluble material has been extracted from the grounds during brewing.
For Mikael’s espresso, the target was a TDS of approximately 8.5%, with around 4.4 grams of coffee solids extracted from a beverage weighing 52 grams.
That level of precision might seem excessive if you’re simply making a morning espresso at home, but in a competition environment, small differences can have a significant impact.
Consistent measurements allow baristas to repeat a recipe and make adjustments with much greater confidence.
It can also help specialty coffee businesses use their coffee more efficiently while maintaining the flavour profile they are aiming for.
Espresso: Then and Now
Looking at espresso between 2003 and 2024 gives us a fascinating snapshot of how quickly coffee culture has evolved.
The changes didn’t happen overnight.
By 2013, espresso recipes were often built around smaller doses and lower extraction yields than many of the approaches we see today. Darker roasts and less-developed flavour profiles were also common.
Over time, the focus began shifting.
Instead of simply looking for intensity, baristas increasingly started chasing balance, clarity and distinctiveness.
That change has been helped along by improvements in coffee science and technology. Modern grinders can produce much more precise particle distributions, espresso machines offer greater control over temperature and pressure, and roasters have become increasingly sophisticated in how they develop individual coffees.
All of this gives baristas more control over what eventually ends up in the cup.
For South African coffee drinkers, this evolution is particularly easy to see in the growth of specialty coffee culture. The modern café scene has given customers more opportunities to experience lighter roasts, single-origin coffees and espresso with flavours that go well beyond the traditional dark, intense profile.
The idea of what an espresso should taste like has changed.
The Return of the Ristretto
Here’s where the story takes an interesting turn.
Despite the movement towards longer ratios and higher extraction, Mikael Jasin’s approach also brought some of the ristretto’s influence back into the picture.
For his milk-based beverages, he used a 1:1.5 ratio.
By using a shorter extraction, the espresso becomes more concentrated, allowing certain flavours to stand out strongly when combined with milk.
In Mikael’s beverage, this helped bring out notes described as peach liqueur, cantaloupe and marzipan, alongside a creamy mouthfeel and a lingering chocolate truffle finish.
It’s a great example of how old and new techniques don’t necessarily have to compete with each other.
The ristretto isn’t simply an outdated version of espresso. Used deliberately, it can still be a powerful tool for shaping flavour.
And if a modern World Barista Champion can use a concentrated espresso approach to create this level of complexity, perhaps the ristretto still has plenty to offer.
Maybe it’s not a comeback so much as a reminder that coffee techniques tend to come back around in unexpected ways.
Embracing the Future of Espresso
From Paul Bassett’s triple ristretto in 2003 to Mikael Jasin’s highly precise espresso in 2024, the story of modern espresso is really a story about experimentation.
The goalposts have moved considerably.
What was once considered excessive can become influential. Techniques that were once standard can be challenged. And methods that seemed to belong to an earlier era can find a new purpose when combined with modern coffee science.
That’s what makes espresso so interesting.
Whether you’re an aspiring barista, a home coffee enthusiast or running a café in South Africa, there is always another variable to explore and another way to understand what’s happening in the cup.
You don’t need competition-level equipment to experiment, either. Changing your grind size, brew ratio, dose or extraction flow can reveal something new about the coffee you’re working with.
The important thing is to stay curious.
At The Coffee Blog, we’re interested in that space where coffee tradition meets new ideas. From the history of espresso to the techniques shaping the future of specialty coffee, there’s always another story worth exploring.
So the next time you pull an espresso, take a moment to think about how far the humble shot has come.
From the bold triple ristrettos of the early 2000s to today’s precise, complex and highly controlled espresso, the evolution continues — one shot at a time.
