The Role of Women in the Coffee Industry
In 2017, we explored the landscape of gender equity through the lens of roasters who had purchased coffees produced by women, including farm owners, field workers, and members of cooperatives. Despite women owning 20-30% of coffee farms globally and performing around 70% of the labor required for coffee production, they face significant challenges in accessing necessary resources like land, loans, and education. This disparity exists even though women comprise 43% of the global agricultural labor force.
Highlighting women coffee producers offers a glimpse into the broader socio-political narrative and serves as a catalyst for change. This month, we asked roasters to submit coffees from women-owned farms, women’s cooperatives, and microlots farmed by women to amplify their stories and showcase their exceptional coffees. Out of 45 samples, we selected the 10 highest-scoring coffees, representing a diverse range of origins from Hawai’i to Rwanda.
Top-Scoring Coffees
Rusty’s Hawaiian Grand Champion Red Bourbon Natural (96)
Lorie Obra and her team at Rusty’s Hawaiian produced this delicately fruit-forward, richly aromatic coffee from the Ka’u region of Hawai’i. The coffee is tropical, juicy, and plushly syrupy, beautifully representing the region’s potential. Lorie, who faced numerous challenges after her husband’s death in 2006, has successfully put Ka’u on the coffee map through innovative processing methods and her dedication to quality. At 71, she continues to manage challenges like leaf rust and coffee berry borer with resilience and determination.
Speckled Ax’s Sumatra Lintong Kardon (95)
This coffee from Speckled Ax in Portland, Maine, impressed us with its classic profile — richly earthy and sweetly spice-toned with distinct notes of graphite, pink peppercorn, and guava. Produced by a group of 200 widows in the Lintong region of Sumatra, these women farmers have received training in agriculture and coffee processing, supported by Kardon and Yulinda. This coffee stands out as one of the best Sumatras we’ve tasted all year.
GK Coffee’s Panama Finca Don Julian (94)
GK Coffee in Taiwan submitted this washed Panama Finca Don Julian, a brightly sweet, floral-toned coffee with notes of narcissus, pink grapefruit, and bay leaf. Heakyung Kang Burneskis, who bought the farm with her husband in 1998, has continued the legacy of producing world-class coffees after her husband’s death. Many of her coffees have won Best of Panama awards, and roaster Gary Liao supports her farm and conservation efforts.
Other Notable Coffees
Barrington Coffee’s Guatemala Finca Diamante (93)
Barth Anderson of Barrington Coffee has been buying Paty Perez’s coffee since 2013. This coffee from the higher elevation of Finca Diamante in Huehuetenango offers a boldly structured, richly chocolaty cup with tart, pomegranate-like undertones and dusky oregano. Paty’s dedication to quality is evident in this exceptional coffee.
Kakalove Café’s Taiwan Kanon Estate SL34 Natural (93)
YuChin Kao’s Kanon Estate in Nantou County, Taiwan, produced this complex, richly sweet-savory coffee with notes of salted caramel, tamarind, hazelnut, freesia, and green peppercorn. Kao, who studied social work, now runs the farm and aims to educate youth about the coffee industry and provide jobs to people with disabilities.
Small Eyes Café’s Ethiopia Gediyo Yirgacheffe Wegida Ama Commitment (93)
Tom Chuang of Small Eyes Café submitted this floral, nectarine-noted Yirgacheffe from Burtukan Wako. Produced under the “Ama Commitment” program by Wubit Bekele’s Ephtah Specialty Coffee, this coffee supports women farmers, showcasing their dedication and skill.
African Coffees
Equator Coffee’s Burundi Women of Turihamwe (92)
This berry-driven, spice-toned coffee from Burundi is produced by the Turihamwe Turashobora group, founded by seven women who pooled their resources to build a wet mill. Distributed by Jeanine Niyonzima-Aroian’s JNP Coffee, this coffee supports financial literacy and leadership skills for women farmers.
Wonderstate Coffee’s Ethiopia Idido Tiluse Honey Process (92)
Tiluse Washing Station owner Hirut Gute collaborated with Snap Specialty Coffee to produce this deep-toned, sweetly citrusy coffee with notes of pomelo, cantaloupe, and cocoa nib. This coffee highlights the potential of smallholding farmers around centralized washing stations.
Cafecita’s Queen’s Crown Rwanda (91)
Produced by smallholding women farmers around the Gasharu Washing Station, this coffee is sourced by Cafecita, a women-owned roasting company dedicated to supporting women-led farms and cooperatives. This microlot exemplifies the distinctive qualities of Rwandan coffee.
Nostalgia Coffee’s Glory Days (92)
This single-origin Mexico coffee from Veracruz offers notes of dark chocolate, dried cherry, cashew, gently scorched cedar, and gardenia. Sourced from Woman Power Zongolica Farm, a collective of 20 women producers, this coffee is carefully roasted to medium-dark by Nostalgia Coffee. Founder Taylor Fields emphasizes the importance of creating deep ties with Mexican coffee producers and supporting a more equitable, inclusive, and sustainable coffee industry.
Supporting Women Coffee Producers
Through this exploration, we discovered not only excellent coffees but also the compelling stories behind each one. The labor, creativity, resilience, and skill of women coffee producers make these coffees possible. By supporting these women and their exceptional coffees, we contribute to a more equitable and sustainable coffee industry.
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Author
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Stu’s coffee story starts a little differently. For him, it wasn’t about exotic beans or latte art. It was about understanding that simple, quiet first cup of the morning, the one that could change the tone of the entire day. From a young age, he was drawn to the ritual, the smell, and even the science behind roasting his own beans—a hobby he’s been perfecting since childhood. Over time, his curiosity about coffee turned into a passion to share it, to connect with others, and to explore every technique, flavor, and brewing style. For Stu, The Coffee Blog is a space where coffee is more than a drink—it’s a conversation, an adventure, and a shared experience that anyone can join. Fun Fact: Stu continues to love roasting his own coffee and considers it an art. “I treat every batch of beans like a tiny, delicious science experiment.”