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The world of specialty coffee is constantly evolving, with a significant emphasis on innovative processing methods at the farm level. Over the past decade, as the unique story of each coffee has become more important to consumers, processing methods have taken center stage. Processing methods, even more than tree variety, have the power to decisively alter the cup profile, allowing farmers to create distinctive coffees without the long-term risks associated with planting new tree varieties.
This month, we’re highlighting the contributions of Southern California roasters during this particularly exciting time in the coffee industry. The eight roasters featured here focus on traditional processing methods such as washed, natural, and honey, rather than experimental techniques. These coffees are exemplary in their processing categories, each telling a story of meticulous care at the farm level.
While many in the specialty coffee community experiment with bold new processing techniques, classic washed coffees continue to hold a special place in consumers’ hearts. Even cafés offering molecular coffee cocktails haven’t abandoned these traditional gems.
In the vibrant coffee scene of San Diego, Jaunt Coffee stands out. Jimmy Silva, the owner, emphasizes the importance of quality coffee, strong community relationships, and appealing offerings. Jaunt Coffee’s Kenya Nyeri Gathaithi, scoring an impressive 93, is a testament to traditional Kenya “double-washed” processing. The coffee’s aroma, featuring black currant, wisteria, lime zest, tamarind, and cedar, instantly reveals its origin. Silva notes that their focus on quality, community support, and social media marketing has kept them relevant.
Handlebar Coffee, based in Santa Barbara and co-founded by former professional cyclists Kim Anderson and Aaron Olsen, is a hub in the local culinary scene. Their Honduras Marcala, also scoring 93, is a nutty, butterscotch-toned coffee with a balanced, bittersweet structure. Head roaster Geoffrey Leech discovered this coffee three years ago, initially intended for an espresso blend but found it so enjoyable that it became a standalone offering. Leech notes that despite the challenges of the pandemic, they are working towards normalcy, revamping their food program to serve the local community better.
Bird Rock Coffee’s Ethiopia Raro Boda, scoring 94, epitomizes a classic washed Ethiopia with its citrusy-sweet, cocoa-toned, and floral cup profile. Co-owner Maritza Suarez-Taylor highlights their focus on developing durable relationships with growers. This particular coffee, processed using the traditional Ethiopia washed method, has been a staple for three years. The method promotes a cup with floral, tropical, and citric aromas, reflecting their commitment to quality and sustainability.
The remaining coffees reviewed are processed using natural or honey methods, both of which enhance the fruit expression in the cup. Natural processing involves drying the coffee cherries in the whole fruit, while honey processing removes the skin but leaves varying degrees of fruit flesh on the bean. These methods have become classic in their own right, with natural and honey-processed coffees now ubiquitous in the specialty coffee world.
Ventura-based Moore Coffee & Tea’s El Salvador Aida Batlle La Florida Natural, scoring 95, is a richly floral and fruit-toned coffee with notes of passion fruit and star jasmine. Owner Gayla Moore emphasizes her focus on women producers and balanced roasting style. Moore’s commitment to quality and adaptability has kept her relevant in a competitive market.
Nostalgia Coffee Roasters’ Colombia Geisha Cordillera Natural, also scoring 95, is deeply chocolaty and spice-toned with dried blueberry and magnolia notes. Owner Taylor Fields praises Felipe Trujillo, the farmer, for his innovative and mentoring role in Colombia’s specialty coffee scene. Despite losing this Geisha crop to severe weather, Trujillo’s work continues to inspire, reflecting the dedication and passion driving the specialty coffee industry.
Chino-based Espresso Republic’s Ethiopia Gigesa Natural, scoring 93, offers a fruit-toned and sweetly herbaceous profile with notes of Bing cherry, marjoram, honeysuckle, salted caramel, and fresh-cut oak. This sun-dried coffee is a classic example of Ethiopia’s fruit-and-herb style.
Regent Coffee in Glendale offers Costa Rica’s Hacienda Sonora Villa Sarchi Honey, scoring 93. Founder Leon Nie, originally from China, praises the growing specialty coffee scene in Southern California. This juicy, balanced, and cleanly fruit-forward coffee reflects Nie’s dedication to quality and his journey towards creating a successful roastery in his adopted home.
The Reverse Orangutan’s Ethiopia Shantawane Buncho Honey, scoring 93, is another standout with its vibrantly sweet-tart profile and sweet herb and cocoa notes. Co-owner Jamil Radney, along with Geoff Clark, focuses on making coffee approachable and exciting. Their ethos of delivering “serious gourmet” coffee with an approachable demeanor resonates with their customers, blending third-wave sophistication with a friendly, inclusive atmosphere.
Southern California’s specialty coffee scene is thriving, with roasters focusing on quality, meticulous processing, and community engagement. From classic washed coffees to natural and honey-processed gems, these roasters are setting new standards while making specialty coffee accessible and enjoyable.
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