In 2017, Coffee Review embarked on a flavorful journey to explore the vibrant roasting scenes across the U.S., starting with the American Southwest. This year, we’re thrilled to take you on a tour through the U.S. mountain states: Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Utah, and Wyoming. From high altitudes to classic coffees, we’ve unearthed some of the most captivating roasts these regions have to offer.
We received samples from all five states, and of the many delightful coffees, the top 11 stood out with impressive scores ranging from 92 to 96. These top-rated coffees include seven from Kenya, two from Ethiopia, one from Colombia, and a celebrated Panama Geisha. While these coffees might seem classic in origin and style, their profiles are anything but ordinary. Each Kenya, for instance, offered a unique twist on the familiar wet-processed cup, providing exhilarating variations that coffee lovers cherish. The 92-rated Colombia from Jackrabbit Java in Thermopolis, Wyoming, exemplifies a fine wet-processed coffee from the Nariño growing region.
Among the 11, three coffees stood out as distinct: two natural-processed Ethiopias—Caffeic Ethiopia (93) and Desert Sun Organic Ethiopia Sidama Natural (92)—and the highest-rated sample, Dragonfly Coffee’s Esmeralda Estate Porton Geisha Natural (96). This Geisha, from the farm that first rediscovered the variety, showcases the exquisite potential of naturally processed coffee.
The High-Elevation Roasting Challenge
Roasting coffee is both an art and a science, requiring roasters to use their senses and instruments to monitor and adjust variables meticulously. However, roasting at higher elevations introduces unique challenges. Just as cooking at high altitudes requires adjustments, so does roasting coffee.
For example, water boils at 212°F at sea level but only at 202°F in Denver, which sits at 5,280 feet. This difference necessitates adjustments in roasting profiles. Brother Paul-Marie of Mystic Monk in Clark, Wyoming (4,500 feet), whose Kenya we review here at 93, notes, “The dry mountain air makes storing green beans a challenge, and gale-force winds can make airflow more difficult to control.” Similarly, Tamas Christman of Dragonfly Coffee in Boulder, Colorado (5,328 feet), states, “Profiling can be time-consuming, but it’s of utmost importance in ensuring the achievement of optimal roast.”
Andy Sprenger of Sweet Bloom Coffee Roasters in Denver, Colorado (Kenya Kainamui, 93), adds, “Although we continue to make small adjustments to how we roast in Denver, I do wonder if we develop them ever so slightly more to compensate for the lower brew temperatures available.” Phil Goodlaxson of Corvus Coffee Roasters (Kenya Kariru, 92), also in Denver, agrees, “Everything happens a bit quicker at altitude; chemical reactions in the beans get jump-started slightly earlier.”
Weather and Logistics in the Mountain States
High elevations bring extreme weather, making roasting a year-round challenge. Gary Thiesen of Revel Coffee in Billings, Montana (Kenya Kiambu, 94), faces the task of keeping his roasting warehouse climate-stable, while also dealing with winter logistics. Josh Thomas of Jackrabbit Java in Thermopolis, Wyoming, says, “Our main truck shipping route runs through a large canyon to the south of town, often closed due to snow or rock slides, which essentially closes our supply channels.”
Carl Rand of Durango Coffee Company in Durango, Colorado (Kenya, 92), roasts at 6,500 feet, the highest altitude among the roasters in this report. He had his Probat roaster specially engineered to handle the challenges of thin air and low humidity, storing all coffee in hermetic, gas-tight storage bags to prevent aggressive drying.
Coffee Culture in Transition
The evolution of coffee culture in the mountain states mirrors the broader trends in the U.S. coffee scene. We often describe coffee’s history in three waves: the first wave brought nationally branded, pre-ground blends; the second wave reintroduced artisanal, usually dark-roasted coffees; and the third wave focuses on single-origin, light-roasted beans to highlight the unique flavors of the coffee itself.
While metropolitan areas have embraced the third wave, smaller towns and rural areas often lean towards second-wave preferences. Randy Lint of Big Creek Coffee Roasters in Hamilton, Montana (Kenya Gatuya, 93), notes, “The more rural culture has people spread out, and sometimes innovation can be met with skepticism. But more traditional coffee-drinkers are also interested and profoundly loyal.”
Interestingly, some of the highest-rated coffees reviewed this month, including the Mystic Monk Kenya, are medium or even darker roasted, proving that quality transcends roasting styles. Christman of Dragonfly Coffee describes the mountain states’ coffee culture as “progressive and still developing.” His goal is to make the world’s finest coffees approachable through education and unique sensory experiences.
Overcoming Remoteness
Many mountain state roasters operate in remote areas, far from urban coffee cultures. Jackrabbit Java’s Thomas reflects on the pros and cons of being in tiny Thermopolis, Wyoming, home to just over 3,000 people. “Wyoming is the least densely populated state, which means we count on repeat local customers to survive. We offset the low customer base by offering online sales and providing high-quality value coffees.”
These roasters face logistical challenges not only in receiving green coffee but also in shipping roasted coffee to broader markets. Desert Sun’s Liz Nelson, based in Durango, Colorado, highlights the importance of educating and inspiring customers about coffee sourcing, extraction practices, and the nuances of different regions.
Third Wave Meets Tradition
Despite the push towards third-wave light roasts, many mountain state roasters still cater to traditional tastes. Durango’s Nelson observes, “Durango is still very much into darker roasts and blends. Here at Desert Sun Coffee, we work hard to educate and inspire our customers, being transparent about where and how we source our coffees.”
In relatively urban Denver, Goodlaxson of Corvus Coffee Roasters adds, “Roasters here feel like we have something to prove. We can stand on the shoulders of giants without any of their baggage.”
Conclusion
The roasters in the U.S. mountain states are a testament to the diverse and evolving world of coffee. From the high-altitude challenges they face to the traditional and progressive coffee cultures they navigate, these roasters bring unique and exceptional coffees to the table. Whether you’re a fan of classic profiles or adventurous new flavors, there’s something for every coffee lover in these highlands.
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